The cuisine of Nice should not remain static, at the risk of disappearing… Let’s not hesitate to innovate, to evolve the culinary tradition of Nice. Of course, this doesn’t mean doing “new for the sake of new,” like some top chefs permit themselves. Let’s not mix pineapple with anchovies on skewers; let’s not add whipped cream to socca! On a foundation of local culture, why not promote original practices or bring in fresh ideas? This is the ongoing approach of two long-time locals of Nice, Giordan de la Peppa and José Maria. Their book “Et Vive la Cuisine niçoise!” (E viva la couina nissarda), has become essential. Originally published by Z’Editions in 1989, it is now in its fourth edition; currently published by Serre editions.
More than a recipe book, it’s a book on the culinary culture of Nice, the fruit of more than 20 years of trials and errors improved over time. Its sole aim is to inspire pleasure through delightful dishes. No culinary jargon, no diktat; Giordan de la Peppa and José Maria simply suggest ideas. It’s up to you to decide. You can follow them to the letter. You can innovate in your own way, while retaining the know-how of Nice.
Nice Premium aims to further promote this dynamic. Each time, two recipes will be offered. The first will remain classic. Giordan de la Peppa and José Maria will offer their best version. It will be more dietary, more practical, or even more ecological, while retaining this Nice tradition. The second will be completely original, specially designed for you by our two companions. Always with a foundation of Niçois culture, it will surprise and delight your taste buds.
The classic
L’ESTOCAFIC or L’ESTOCAFICADA The Stockfish
My market:
– 0.8 kg of stockfish
– 100 grams of fish gut (optional if I find them)
– 1 kg of tomatoes
– 600 grams of potatoes
– 500 grams of red peppers
– 300 grams of onion
– a leek
– olive oil
– 100 of Nice black olives
– a deciliter of white wine
– garlic and parsley – marjoram, bay leaf, thyme, rosemary
Preparation: 45 minutes (purchase the stockfish four days before)
Cooking: at least 3 hours
Desalt the dried stockfish
I cook
I buy the stockfish very dry four days earlier, cut it into pieces three to four centimeters long (sometimes it needs to be sawed) and soak it with the guts. On the day of preparation, I start by separating the flesh from the bones and skin. I put the latter into a pot with cold water, bring it to a boil, and boil for 30 minutes with a quartered onion, a garlic clove, and bay leaf. I strain the stock through a sieve and keep it.
I drain the flesh and brown it in a pan with olive oil, garlic, and parsley. I slice the rest of the onions and sauté them with thyme and rosemary. I roast the peppers in the oven, peel them, and slice them into strips. I also slice the guts and leek into strips. In a casserole, I pour a bit of olive oil and quickly sauté the tomatoes. I add the white wine, peppers, leek, and guts, then add the flesh with the onions. I mix everything. I add the marjoram, season with salt and pepper. I cover and let it cook for 3 hours on low heat. During cooking, I gradually pour in the prepared stock. I prevent the stockfish from drying out. I blanch the quartered potatoes in the remaining stock, adding them to the stockfish half an hour before serving with the olives.
Our advice
It’s better to let the stockfish soak under a light stream of water. If you can’t change the water twice a day, don’t worry about the smell. It’s better to prepare the stockfish the day before. In this case, I add the potatoes when reheating the dish. Let it simmer for half an hour. When serving, you can place on the table a bottle of olive oil, a puree made from salted anchovies, garlic, and basil, or saousson, a cold sauce of fresh tomatoes. Everyone can add according to their taste. Use new potatoes, not the floury ones.
The new
ANCHOUTINADA by GIORDAN
Anchoutinade by Giordan
My market:
– 500 grams of fresh anchovies
– 7 eggs
– 50 grams of parsley
– 2 cloves of garlic
– 200 grams of salad (preferably mix lettuce)
– olive oil
– salt, pepper
Anchovies to prepare
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 10 minutes
I cook:
I begin by gutting and washing the anchovies in water.
I separate the fillets from the bone, then let them drain.
I then grind them in a mixer with the parsley (I avoid too much stalk), garlic, salt, and pepper.
I beat the eggs in a bowl and incorporate the anchovies.
There you go, I just need to cook in hot olive oil.
I serve Giordan’s anchoutinade either cold or warm on a bed of seasoned salad (preferably mix lettuce, dandelions, or oak leaves). If necessary, I can present a bit of frisée.
Our advice:
This is a dish we highly recommend because it is truly excellent, on par with the famous poutine omelet. Many of our “guests” have often confused it with something else or found it better. As for the quality-price ratio, let’s not even talk about it!
In the same style, you can use fresh sardines or scorpionfish.
Try, once, making it with red mullets: you will need to spend a little more time removing the fish fillets and bones.
