From this Provenรงal village, we will focus on the Parage district. Les Arcs has a famous son who marked the political life of Var, Edouard Soldani, known as the old lion. He was born here in 1911 and passed away 85 years later. Edouard Soldani was: mayor of Draguignan, president of the general council of Var, and senator.
Les Arcs could be called the village of fountains, as there are many, such as those: of the hospice, of the clock, from when you must admire the sundial and three faience panels inspired by Chagall, of Sieur Baron, of Father Clinchard, and of Thรฉlon.
Unfortunately, today they are all dried up due to a lack of water. The village name is derived from an ancient Roman bridge located south of the city. In 1010, the place was called Archus and would become the castrum of Arcobus. The medieval part retains the remains of a 12th-century castle, including the keep and the guardroom, which partly house “the watchman’s lodge.”
It’s a luxury hotel-restaurant whose terrace overlooks the verdant landscape made of rolling hills that appear bluish or even mauve on the horizon. The old ramparts can be discerned by the four gates that remain at the entrances to the old town. One enters through the low tower or the 14th-century clock tower with a finely chiseled campanile dating from 1662. The other three are: the Rรฉal gate, the Milante gate, and the Haute gate.
It was the Villeneuve family who, in the 13th century, built the castle partially destroyed during the revolution. In 1670, the Vintimille became the lords of Les Arcs. The Villeneuves have left their mark in local history, and one of them: “Hรฉlion” 1270-1346 is honored with a street name. The Saint Jean Baptiste church houses an animated Provenรงal nativity scene and a Brea altarpiece. A fresco at Joan of Arc’s altar honors the dead of various conflicts.
Inside the ramparts, the former 12th-century Notre Dame church, under the protection of Saint Pierre du Parage, is now used for painting exhibitions. The Sainte Roseline chapel located in the village suburb is decorated with a Chagall fresco.
At the museum of Les Arcs’ history, one learns about the important role of a local family, the Trucs, who during the revolution tempered the excesses of terror. In this Parage district, what strikes the visitor is the ochre color of the houses, which, through its uniformity, gives a pleasing harmony. We are in Provence at the noon hour, and each house has its shutters closed, protected from the overpowering heat of the sun.
It is only in the late afternoon that life and activity will resume around a plane tree-shaded square where the boule players will compete in dexterity to avoid the humiliation of the Fanny. Alas, we must reluctantly leave this charming village and catch our train.
by Thierry Jan
