Craving fresh air and a chance to recharge? Set off to explore the Upper and Middle Country for a day and take the Train of Wonders in Nice for a journey that will lead you to Tende… The TER Paillon Roya Bévéra railway line offers you one of the most beautiful railway landscapes in Europe.
The history of this route dates back to the 14th century: it was first opened by muleteers carrying salt through the Roya Valley. Subsequently, it remained an important route as it connected Nice to its capital Turin (territory of the family of the Duke of Savoy). The railway line was inaugurated in 1928, the result of exceptional work as it required drilling around fifty tunnels under terrible conditions (explosions, smoke, noise). While it would take three days to cover the 72 km from Nice to Tende in the 19th century, it only takes 90 minutes today.
90 minutes of simple happiness
On board the train, you pass through charming villages nestled in rich nature. Fig trees, rosemary, vines, and olive trees persist, bearing witness to highly developed agriculture in the Middle Ages. This was then abandoned and overtaken by the forest when the tourism industry developed in the 19th century.
You first travel through the Paillon gorges, a paradise for cavers, then a large valley with beautiful terraces leads to Sospel. Sospel offers significant heritage as it was a regional capital over the ages: chapels, fortified sites, Pont Vieux. From there, you reach the Roya after a tunnel, where you can glimpse a characteristic red rock. A steep climb then begins for the train, which will go from an altitude of 300 meters to 820 meters. However, it is facilitated by two remarkable helical loops. Through the windows, you can spot Breil-sur-Roya, Saorge, St-Dalmas-de-Tende… You are then at the gates of Mercantour, which covers 600 km² and represents 70% of the European flora and 80% of the fauna. St-Dalmas-de-Tende is also the gateway to the Valley of Wonders dominated by Mont Bégo. The valley owes its name to thousands of rock carvings depicting, among other things, the Bull, both a sacred god and a tool for agriculture in ancient times. In Tende, the Train of Wonders stops. However, this is not the end of the journey. Tende is indeed a charming village worth visiting.
Tende and Saorge
Tende is the largest commune in the Alpes-Maritimes but is above all an atypical village. From the station, you arrive at the Town Hall square. Here stands the St-Michel Church. The central altar offers a magnificent view of the mountain thanks to a bay window at the back of the building. Exceptional. Also worth seeing, in the heart of the village after strolling through cobbled streets full of history, is the Collegiate Church of Our Lady of the Assumption. Consecrated in 1518, it is remarkable for its green stone portal featuring the 12 apostles with Christ in the center.
The Museum of Wonders is also worth a visit. Interactive, it traces the history of Tende’s civilization from the Neolithic age to the 21st century. You can admire the famous corniforms, these rock engravings representing the bull-god. You can also listen to the first musical instruments or enter a Tende interior from the 19th century. Very educational, the museum currently features an exhibition of decorated cowbells that testify to Tende’s pastoral tradition.
On the return journey, it’s worth making a stop at Saorge.
This village nestled in the mountain is remarkable for its monastery, a center of national monuments. This former Franciscan convent was founded in 1633. Today it has become a retreat for writers. It is one of the last examples of baroque monastic architecture in the region. The cloister contains admirable frescoes depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. It also includes about ten magnificent sundials. The Church features carved woodwork and one of the oldest Stations of the Cross painted on canvas in the Nice region. As for the refectory, it still has its original decorations, walnut woodwork, and tables. The terraced convent garden allowed the monks to live in near self-sufficiency.
Transport yourself to another world just a few kilometers from Nice. The Train of Wonders is truly worth the trip!
