Frédéric Buzet has been passionate about cooking since he was ten years old. After a meteoric rise in the restaurant world, this multi-starred chef had planned for a more peaceful end to his career on the French Riviera, notably with the opening of Brasserie Julien in Cagnes-Sur-Mer… But that was without counting the Covid-19 pandemic and its impact on the sector.
On June 18th, Frédéric Buzet inaugurated Brasserie Julien at the Polygone in Cagnes-Sur-Mer. The idea was to revisit French cuisine with regional dishes updated for modern tastes. An adventure that serves as a final challenge for the Burgundy native and a crowning achievement of an already full career. “For 13 years, I was the head chef at Château de Divonne, near Paris,” he recalls with a big smile. “I also worked at the Grand Vefour in the Palais Royal and for the restaurant of the prestigious Hôtel le Crillon.” That’s where he met the “immense” Joël Robuchon, a reference in the culinary arts, from whom he “learned a lot.” Like his mentor, this motorcycle enthusiast doesn’t plan on leaving the stove until his last breath. So, when the owner of Polygone Riviera offered him a “new challenge,” he didn’t hesitate long. “We set ourselves the goal of reviving the traditional bistro. For an end-of-career project, it’s rather exciting,” he exclaims, stars in his eyes. But there’s no question of abandoning his other passion project, Bistrot Margaux, located in Antibes. “I’ll alternate between the two establishments and will be responsible for creating the menus. I’ll set the tone while continuing to cook because I love it.”
Rich experiences full of emotion
Despite his enthusiasm for the future, Frédéric Buzet’s best years are in the past. And that’s no small statement. “The end of the twentieth century was my best period professionally, between 1998 and 2001. Those were completely different years. At that time, I was working at Saint Paul de Laurence in a château where we earned our first star in 2000.” This achievement even attracted TF1 cameras for a feature on Jean-Pierre Pernaut’s 13h news program. Nevertheless, the chef prefers to remember his “wonderful kitchen team, with a true sense of unity.” A unity that contrasts with the terrible consequences of the September 2001 attacks… “For a while, Americans stopped visiting French territory,” he recalls. “The attacks created a real psychosis, even in the restaurant industry.” But, as an eternal optimist, the fifty-something man quickly dismisses these dark thoughts to better focus on the positive. His best memory? A winter evening in 1993, on the occasion of the 80th birthday of the famous actor Jean Marais. “A hundred celebrities were present at the Grand Récho in the Palais Royal. All world-renowned, it was fantastic, the atmosphere was at its peak… Probably my best evening ever!” His face lights up more with each word. His eyes wander into the distance, eager for the slightest hint of a memory, before shining at the mere mention of his “masters,” Joël Robuchon, Jacques Lameloise, and Guy Martin, with all the respect and humility that his peers recognize in him.
Optimism despite the crisis
Today, the native of Saône-et-Loire is far from the luxury of the grand Parisian restaurants. Without dampening his enthusiasm. “We are lucky to eat well everywhere in France; we try to delight people by cooking good little dishes at very affordable prices.” But the Covid-19 pandemic has changed everything, even for the most prestigious chefs. Yet it doesn’t affect his eternal smile. “Despite the health measures, we notice an increase in spending from clients. People want to treat themselves to quality products,” he rejoices. “They’re becoming aware of the importance of respecting seasons, and buying regional products will soon become a habit.” A mission that has become his trademark. Generous and conscientious, Frédéric Buzet has no regrets. And now, like his mentors, he is betting on the youth. “It’s a wonderful profession, open to everyone!” he encourages, mischievously. “If young people want to get into the restaurant business, they should not hesitate; they need passion. I believe a lot in the youth.” The table is set. All that’s left is to serve.
