The Esteron Valley is a travel destination in itself. A nearly untouched nature and this river that winds between meanders and small waterfalls.
The village of Sigale is situated at an altitude of 660 meters, where you first encounter the Saint Sebastian chapel and a mission cross, dated December 26, 1823.
In the church square, there is a fountain with Latin inscriptions and a wine press. The parish church of Saint Michael dates back to the 12th century, it is Romanesque and was built by the Templars. On a small mound, there is a more modern bell tower; to access it, ask for the key at the café in the square where the ruins of the old castle are located.
The village of Sigale was indeed fortified, at the bridge you can see the boundary marker of the former border between the kingdoms of France and Sardinia. There are other remains of the old fortifications, from the Claste square, you descend towards an old gate, then on Vesigeale street, an angled wall of the old ramparts awaits you.
We leave this small village on this beautiful afternoon and head towards Roquesteron, four kilometers below. The valley, the garrigue, the olive trees, the aromas of lavender and thyme blending together, all of this will be your reward.
After the road junction for Aiglun, we find the Esteron flowing green and blue, and its crystalline song rises to meet you. The nature here is truly pristine, over a vast portion of the route, there isn’t a single dwelling, and one savors this privilege, that of being at the origin of time. We will admire the oratory of Our Lady of Entrevignes and its chapel with beautiful wall frescoes.
When arriving at Roquesteron Puget, there are two cemeteries: one Muslim and the other Christian. In front of the entrance of the latter, there is a monument erected in homage to a Mr. Clérici, who saved a six-year-old child on July 1, 1850, in the fire of Auguste Faissole de Sigale’s house. This latter was located in the district of Claus. The church of Roquesteron, Saint Arige, dates back to 1735.
On Alziary street, you will see a sundial from 1881. According to Eliane, whom I will discuss again, the oldest house is located on Doctor Passeron street; a lintel indicates 1694. In this street, you will pass under a house to discover a courtyard with stone facades and a worm-eaten staircase. An odor of rancidness rises from it.
The Esteron must be crossed, and on the other side, you find yourself past the border between the County and Provence. A boundary marker on the footbridge marks the limit. You will climb a small mound that leads you to Saint Petronilla. This chapel is of Templar origin and is surrounded by its small cemetery. You can see the Riou flowing into the Esteron.
The ruins of a castle dominate it. I mentioned Eliane: we are going to meet her, and she is indeed an interesting character. She tells you about her life and speaks of Carnoules, where she was born, but with her flair, I suspect she might have known Honorine. From the outset, she addresses you informally and confesses to not liking the pious people she calls “sacristy bugs.” She talks about Tania Viserova, the dancer who was allegedly a friend of King Zog of Albania and adds that she is buried in Roquesteron.
With Eliane, the conversation is rich, and she shares little secrets: like soaking prunes overnight in tea before letting them macerate in brandy. She becomes a doctor and explains her poultices: bread soaked in milk with saffron or how to treat a hangnail with an eggshell. We will leave Eliane with regret.
On the bus, a glance back, she continues and now discusses with another, too late to catch her lively conversation. The bus itself is a spectacle with this driver who knows everyone and becomes your friend in less than a kilometer.
