“Niçoise cuisine must be respected but not necessarily codified!”

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It is part of the local daily life and will undoubtedly be at the heart of the news at the end of this year and the beginning of next year with major events such as the Nice Carnival, King of Gastronomy, or the official launch of its “revisited” label by the Tourist Office. Niçoise Cuisine remains a symbol with passionate defenders.

franck-pan-bagnat.jpg Franck Viano, former editor-in-chief of Nice Premium and member of the technical committee of the “Cuisine Nissarde” label, has something stuck in his throat since the article appeared in Nice Matin about the Fraternity of Cooks announcing the establishment of a charter for Niçoise cuisine: “We were all surprised by this curious initiative, especially since no one bothered to talk to us about it beforehand… And for a good reason!” An initiative that has raised eyebrows in the Niçoise cuisine community as well as within the ranks of the “Cuisine Nissarde” label, which is about to celebrate its 20 years of existence.

“But, besides announcing a ‘novelty’ that has existed for nearly two decades, it is the approach that is disturbing. Of course, we must preserve this cuisine, which is the only one in the world to carry the name of its city, but we must remain open and receptive to ideas that will shape the Cuisine Nissarde of tomorrow. On this point, I agree with David (Faure), and it seems evident to me that the protection of our heritage will not be achieved in total isolation,” declares the former winner of the Nice edition of the show “An Almost Perfect Dinner.”

“When I made the sweet Pan Bagnat in public for the benefit of the Telethon, I had a colorful intervention from some members of this Fraternity (set up in the stand opposite, offering traditional Pan Bagnats) who told me that it was a shame to call that a Pan Bagnat. It made me smile, but it is symptomatic of a cuisine that does not want to grow, and a cuisine that does not grow is a cuisine that dies. I am for the respect of traditions, but the strength of man, like of chefs, is to know how to evolve,” concludes this enthusiast.

There is no doubt that Niçoise Cuisine has many (upcoming) good days ahead, and, who knows, maybe one day a “Maison” where chefs and enthusiasts could meet to exchange and share around this precious common heritage…

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