At La Passagère*, the Michelin-starred restaurant of Hôtel Les Belles Rives in Juan-les-Pins, Chef Aurélien Véquaud refines marine and vegetal flavours with precision and sensitivity. Faithful to the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, he blends excellence, creativity and Mediterranean heritage into an elegant and sustainable cuisine.
In the 1920s, Francis Scott Fitzgerald, author of The Great Gatsby, and his wife Zelda celebrated the Roaring Twenties at Villa Saint-Louis in Juan-les-Pins. Overlooking the sea, this elegant residence became a gathering place for artists, aristocrats and American expatriates in search of beauty, love and a sense of eternity. Extravagant and cosmopolitan, the couple hosted legendary soirées there: jazz orchestras, piano bars, champagne flowing freely, midnight swims and frenzied dancing on the terrace.
In 1929, the Estène family acquired Villa Saint-Louis and transformed it into what is now Hôtel Les Belles Rives. Deeply attached to the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, how has the Estène family managed to preserve and perpetuate the legacy of this legendary place?
With its feet in the water, the façade — geometric motifs, arched windows and elegant lines — and the terrace, redesigned with contemporary comfort — metal tables, blue-and-white woven chairs, herringbone brick flooring — have remained almost unchanged. The Fitzgerald Bar, along with portraits of the writer and other artists, invites guests to imagine the jazzy, high-society evenings of the past. The colourful, softly upholstered Art Deco furniture, inspired by the 1930s, immerses visitors in the refined charm of the Riviera of that era. And then, there is this gastronomic table suspended above the sea, orchestrated by Chef Aurélien Véquaud…
“I’ve been fascinated by cooking since childhood — I spent hours leafing through recipe books,” he recalls. Originally from the Vendée, his apprenticeship alongside Alexandre Couillon* (La Marine, Noirmoutier) confirmed his desire to pursue haute gastronomy: “Restaurants of excellence allow you to train at the highest level and grow faster.” Aurélien then continued his culinary journey towards the Mediterranean, working with Olivier Brulard (MOF, La Réserve de Beaulieu) and Arnaud Donckele* (La Pinède, Saint-Tropez). This prestigious path led him to his first head-chef position at Palm Beach Ajaccio*, where he successfully retained the Michelin star for five years — a distinction he would later reclaim at La Passagère* in 2017. A recognised talent, he was awarded “Grand Chef de Demain” by Gault&Millau.
With a true seafarer’s soul, the chef celebrates “The Sea as Heritage” — a cuisine that honours marine produce through a respectful and sustainable approach. Each dish, crafted with passion and precision, reveals the iodised flavours of both his Atlantic roots and the Mediterranean. “I remain deeply attached to certain Atlantic products: langoustines, oysters, brown crab…” Mindful of environmental concerns and evolving dietary trends, he also champions “Green Light – Vegetal Iodine”, a vegetarian menu that rigorously reflects his culinary identity: “no fish, no meat… only vegetables and other bites infused with iodised notes.”
The Menu We Tasted
Amuse-bouche
A condensed expression of the chef’s culinary world
Huître, caviar
Soufflé crevette grise, citron caviar
Pissaladière
Moule, poivre Timut
Préfou – pain traditionnel vendéen
LE GAMBON
Exceptional prawn, melting texture, intense saline character and vibrant fruity acidity
LISETTE GRILLÉE
The subtle, expressive flavour of young grilled mackerel, glazed with anchovy coulis, paired with mustard seeds, sweet onion and bay leaf oil, finished with a rich, spiced and delicately sweet sauce
LA POMME DE TERRE
A gnocchi-like filled creation, Valbonne goat’s cheese, silky watercress velouté, lemon basil and contrasting polenta textures
LA MORILLE DES PINS
Provençal hinterland barley miso, lovage, deep woody intensity, hazelnut nuances, concentrated vegetal jus and natural umami
L’ABSINTHE, comme l’aurait dégustée Scott Fitzgerald
1920s absinthe bonbon with salted preserved lemon sorbet, a delicate balance between sweetness, salinity and alcohol
LA FRAGRANCE
Geranium and rose, floral and tangy notes, a play of textures with meringue, raspberry coulis and aloe vera cubes, offering a refined sweet freshness
NÉPITA 62 % CHOCOLAT
A harmony of bitter, menthol and peppery flavours
What I loved
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The chef Aurélien Véquaud’s gift for conveying, in every plate, a unique marine journey infused with comforting and delicate emotion.
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The balance of the sauces, where iodised and tangy flavours meet with subtlety and generosity.
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The absinthe service ritual, offering an authentic yet contemporary moment blending Riviera elegance, poetry and the spirit of the Roaring Twenties.
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The light, refreshing desserts with floral and herbal notes, created by pastry chef Johann Kleiber.
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A menu combining seafood and vegetarian dishes, beautifully reflecting the chef’s culinary identity.
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The emblematic setting, brought to life by the soul of the hotel and the attentive service of Damian Sanchez.
An interview with Chef Aurélien Véquaud
Aurélien, you have an impressive career alongside great chefs… what have they taught you?
My experience alongside chef and Meilleur Ouvrier de France Olivier Brulard was the most defining stage of my career in the kitchen. He taught me rigour and precision in execution: there was no room for error or improvisation. Every member of the brigade had a clearly defined role in order to optimise collective performance. It was very demanding, intense and sometimes almost military (laughs), but incredibly formative.
Working afterwards with chef Arnaud Donckele*** was a true privilege. A ‘grand master of sauces’, he allowed me to refine my skills with discipline in the creation of sauces, jus and broths. I learned how to combine intuition with excellence in the kitchen. He also passed on to me a strong sense of management and the importance of being pedagogical with teams. Arnaud gave me his trust by granting me complete creative freedom… A wonderful partnership in which we grew together.”
Quel est votre rôle et comment parvenez-vous à faire perdurer l’âme des Années folles à travers votre gastronomie ?
À mon arrivée, j’étais chef de cuisine à La Passagère. Aujourd’hui, je suis chef exécutif de l’ensemble des restaurants de l’hôtel Les Belles Rives : La Passagère, table gastronomique ; Le Paséo, cuisine de partage aux saveurs méditerranéennes et occidentales ; et la plage privée. Cette belle évolution nécessite un travail de recherche, de performance et d’écoute des tendances culinaires. Par exemple, l’élaboration de notre menu végétarien « Green Light », en référence au roman de Fitzgerald. Nous offrons également des expériences gastronomiques fidèles à l’âme de l’hôtel pour faire revivre les Années folles : autour du Prix Fitzgerald, qui récompense chaque année une œuvre évoquant l’esprit Fitzgerald, des soirées à thème, des expositions, des ambiances musicales jazz et de la cérémonie de l’absinthe !
What are your future ambitions?
I like to live day by day… But my main goal is to help the establishment evolve: to shake things up a little in terms of the art of the table, to be even more creative, and to delight our wonderful local and international clientele.
Honoured with a Michelin star, the ambition is now to earn a second one. To achieve this, the key is to keep pushing forward and working with a close-knit team, in a positive and inspiring atmosphere.
La Passagère – Hôtel Les Belles Rives
Address : 33, boulevard Edouard Baudoin – 06160 Antibes
Phone: 04 97 21 75 59.
