The döner kebab, an iconic dish with disputed origins, finds a new form in Nice with the opening of an original shop. The brand offers a more contemporary version designed for urban consumption.
A true fashion phenomenon, the döner has become one of the most consumed dishes in Europe in just a few years. In our German neighbors, it has even surpassed currywurst in eating habits, according to several local surveys. This dish, sometimes presented as a German invention, stems from ancient Turkish traditions.
The word “döner” comes from the Turkish verb dönmek, which means “to turn”. The preparation is based on a vertical spit where the meat, stacked in layers, cooks slowly. Once browned, it is sliced into thin pieces. Originally, the recipe used lamb, but other meats such as chicken or beef have become common. The meat is served with raw vegetables and sauces, in pita bread or lavash.
The history of the döner goes back to the Ottoman era. Miniatures dated between 1616 and 1620 show early forms of this cooking method. In the 19th century, restaurants in Istanbul began using the vertical spit, a method more suited to small spaces. It also allows the meat to self-baste, retaining its juices.
Several Turkish cooks claim the creation of this method. Hamdi Usta in Kastamonu and İskender Efendi in Bursa are among them. The latter has given his name to a variant still served today. A photo from the 1850s already shows a vendor using this technique.
The döner sandwich is said to have been born in Berlin in the 1970s. Kadir Nurman, a Turkish worker settled in Germany, reportedly started selling it in flatbread. This practical version quickly spread. Other vendors claim this idea, but Nurman is often cited as a key figure.
Today, Germany has about 40,000 outlets offering döner kebabs. The United Kingdom has around 20,000, and France nearly 14,000.
A Nice Address with a Different Approach
In this context, the Zendoner brand has opened on Rue Masséna, in Nice. The place offers a döner inspired by the Berlin model, with attention to preparation. The bread is made on-site. The vegetables are freshly cut. The meat is sliced by a robot.
The restaurant operates with ordering kiosks. The customer chooses their ingredients. They can also opt for a bowl, without bread, with rice and raw vegetables. Vegetarian and vegan options are also available. Prices start at 7 euros.
The founder, Turhan Guldas, is a dentist. He studied in Paris and works in Istanbul. He has long been interested in cooking. “I want to offer a simple, sincere, but profoundly qualitative experience,” he announces.
The Nice address is the first of the project. The objective is to offer an adaptable model, without compromising on the products. It does not seek to transform the döner, but to make it more understandable, in line with current expectations.
